Rich B said that right, I would like to add how you can test it if it works (instead of crossing fingers :D):
-you can check the correct tightness of the belt by turning the alternator pulley with your hands. when it's tight enough,you won't be able to turn the pulley, or the the crankshaft will turn with it. When it's loose, the pulley will turn, but the belt won't. This can be even when the belt is not screaming.
-get a digital multimeter (the most simplier will do it), and measure voltage in 20 V range at your battery terminals
-just turn on the ignition, on your dashboard, you should see the small battery lamp lit. when it does not, either the lamp is burnt out, or the voltage regulator of the alternator is defective/disconnected, check the wiring (generally marked DF) and connections. When the lamp is burnt out, you must replace the bulb, as without the bulb the alternator doesn't have excitation from the voltage regulator and will not work !!!
-when the battery lamp is on, start your engine. The lamp should be off as soon as the engine revs up to idle. If it's not, then the regulator/alternator has a problem, recheck the connections. When everything was right and the light doesn't go out, there's a problem with the new alternator/connections, swith off the engine!
-when the lapm goes out after starting, swith off all consumers (A/C, lights, radio, vents etc.). With idle speed you should measure 13.6-14.5 Volts at the battery terminals. Below or above is the charging voltage incorrect, both leading to battery problems in short terms.
(1. %26lt;13.6 V -%26gt; possibly alternator, e.g. diode problem; or battery charge cable too old
2. %26gt;14.5 V -%26gt; possibly voltage regulator error, it's generally built-in to the alternator)
- when it was OK, swith on some consumers (lights, rear window heating, strong hi-fi, vents or A/C in medium setting, at least two of these), you should measure in the same range as mentioned (13.6-14.5).
-with the consumers on, rev the engine up a little (say, 2500 RPM constant), and look at the voltage, the same margins apply.
When your charging voltage is between 13.6-14.5 Volts regardless of consumers and RPM, all works fine.
Note: swithing on all your consumer loads your alternator badly, when it doesn't take more, the voltage will drop and the missing power will come from your battery, which will drain it in medium terms (runing your alternator 100% power all the time makes the lifetime of it shorter).
Regards
How do I change the alternator on my 1994 Honda Accord LX 5 speed?
first off, get a Haynes book for your car, second off, if youre asking this question on yahoo answers, you should probably go to a mechanic. getting the belt tension right (or even all back on) can be a real pain, especially in a tiny little car like that.
How do I change the alternator on my 1994 Honda Accord LX 5 speed?
First,disconnect one of the leads to the battery.Loossen the mounting blot and disconnect the wire,remove bolts and replace the alternator,reconnect things,make sure fan belt is on all pulleys.before tightening mounting blot use a big screw diver or
other lever to pull alternator and it will tighten the belt.Last thing
reconnect the battery at the terminal.Cross fingers,start it up.
If there is a screaming noise,from the engine loosen the the belt,
by loosening the mounting bolt a moving the alternator a bit.Hope this helps.
Remember to return the old one to the store and pick up your core deposit.
Relieve the tension on the belt with the belt tensioner, disconnect the negative battery cable, remove the wires from the back of the alternator, remove the bolts from the alternator that hold it to the bracket on the engine. Then reverse this order with the new one. Its an easy change. At the most it should take an hour!
