It depends, if it has an 'auto-tensioner' (spring loaded pulley, hydraulic, etc), and usually a serpentine belt, you may just need a 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet/breaker bar. Just relieve the tension off the belt, slip off and slip new one on.
If it has V-belts then they are individually tensioned. Which you would have to adjust tension yourself. But be careful about not over tightening the belt, otherwise ruined bearings would result.
a craftsman tool kit will suffice.
What tools and how do you change the alternator belt in a 1999 kia sephia?
if u have to ask then maybe u shud just skip the questions and go to a mechanic, just a thought.
What tools and how do you change the alternator belt in a 1999 kia sephia?
Use a socket driver and a pipe over the handle. This way you have leverage to turn the auto tensioner. Then remove the belt and install a new serpantine belt around the same way the old one comes off. Just lift the belt off with one hand while holding the tensioner open. This is pretty much the same on any car from the 80's 90's and newer.
You should not need any really. There is a pulley that has a spring tension and to relieve the tension you can use a broom stick in a pinch.
Look on the front under the hood there will be a little picture of how the belt goes around the round pulleys.
Its really pretty simple.
Me, I would replace the belt and on the last pulley (the alt or a/c compressor) I would use a screw driver to help get it about half on .....then I would turn the motor over a bit and it will POP into place like Magic!
go to auto zone ask for a 1999 Kia. Thats what I had to do to fix My Sportage.
Thursday, October 6, 2011
MY DURANGO 2005 GAGES LIGHTS KEEP FLICKERING. I CHANGED ALTERNATOR WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE?
I'VE HAD THIS DURANGO FOR ONLY 1 YEAR NOW. IT IS A 2005 I'VE ALREADY SPENT $2000 ON BRAKES AND TIRES AND AN ALTERNATOR. MY GAGES ARE FLICKERING AND MY RADIO SOMETIMES DOES AS WELL. SOMEONE TOLD ME IT WAS MY ALTERNATOR; SO I CHANGED THAT AND IT STILL DOES IT. NOW MY AC IS BARELY BLOWING OUT. I INCREASE IT TO 5 BUT STAYS AT ONE SPEED. IT DOESN'T BLOW OUT AT ALL IF I PUT IT ON THE INSIDE CIRCULATION AND IT DOESN'T COME OUT AT ALL. WHAT COULD EVERYTHING BE???
MY DURANGO 2005 GAGES LIGHTS KEEP FLICKERING. I CHANGED ALTERNATOR WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE?
you have a lose batt cable or a lose ground some where
all so if you have a big amp for subs that will make you lights dim
MY DURANGO 2005 GAGES LIGHTS KEEP FLICKERING. I CHANGED ALTERNATOR WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE?
First of all, if you were charged $2000.00 for the alternator and tires, you got hosed. Now, take the thing to an auto electric shop. Not to a regular garage. A regular shop will %26quot;guess%26quot; you to death. An Auto electric shop will find and fix the problem. You might also want to check for bulletins on this car. Any shop can do this for you. Or do it yourself on line. You will find it by typing in 2005 Dodge Durango service bulletins. (It is more than likely a chassis ground for the interior electrical system.) A bundle of black wires with an eyelet type ground connector. It will be either grounded to the engine or body (metal) or chassis. If it were the battery ground, the car would not start. Good luck.
MY DURANGO 2005 GAGES LIGHTS KEEP FLICKERING. I CHANGED ALTERNATOR WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE?
you have a lose batt cable or a lose ground some where
all so if you have a big amp for subs that will make you lights dim
MY DURANGO 2005 GAGES LIGHTS KEEP FLICKERING. I CHANGED ALTERNATOR WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE?
First of all, if you were charged $2000.00 for the alternator and tires, you got hosed. Now, take the thing to an auto electric shop. Not to a regular garage. A regular shop will %26quot;guess%26quot; you to death. An Auto electric shop will find and fix the problem. You might also want to check for bulletins on this car. Any shop can do this for you. Or do it yourself on line. You will find it by typing in 2005 Dodge Durango service bulletins. (It is more than likely a chassis ground for the interior electrical system.) A bundle of black wires with an eyelet type ground connector. It will be either grounded to the engine or body (metal) or chassis. If it were the battery ground, the car would not start. Good luck.
Do i need to change alternator with a 2600 watt amp?
I Have a hifonics Brutus 2600 watt amp and two 12 inch alpine type X's. My question is that I have been hearing two different things regarding this. One shop tells me yes i need a different battery, alternator, and a custom built box because these subs will blow the wood apart? The other tells me no just a thick wood box and a 20 farad capacitor.
I am very confused on what i should do and I don't want to install it the wrong way and have my alternator fail . . HELP!
Do i need to change alternator with a 2600 watt amp?
Do you have it all in now? Are the lights dimming? or are you planning to get this gear installed? a high output alternater is nice...but may be expensive. Replacing the battery might be a better alternative and a decent cap. But the other major thing to think about is the Wiring. This upgrade is cheaper...especially if you can do it yourself. Also people refer to this upgrade as the %26quot;Big three%26quot;.
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/foru鈥?/a>
Which is very important. I'll tell you what I've got in my system...and just have the stock Alternator of a Honda Element which only puts out 105amps. My system consists of a PHoenix Gold Ti 900.7 amp, for my 5%26quot; Phoenix Gold Component sets (2x each....so 4 5%26quot; and 4 tweeters ) also running a pair of Phoenix Gold Ti 9%26quot; midrange woofers in my doors.
I am also running an Autotek Mean Machine 3000.1 amp. which is running a Fi BTL 12%26quot; Sub fully loaded 3rd magnet, cooling etc.
I have upgraded the big three and have replaced the crappy factory battery with a Yellowtop Optima. No dimming lights. I hit about....148db on a TL Meter....
Oh ya and also running a Phoenix Gold 15 Farad cap...but Capacitors are SOMETIMES overrated.
The X Subs are supposed to be pretty powerful...I've never heard/seen one in action, so I couldnt tell ya but ya a prefabricated box may not be powerful enough to hold your subs if they are extremely heavy and you put a lot of power through it. You need to make sure the box is not cheap. For any sub really. cept the cheapy subs...hehe...the better built the box, usually the better the sound. But it all has to do with the specifications of the sub and materials used as well as how it's built. I dont think the 20 farad cap by itself will help you out. I am surprised the shops have not said that you need the big three upgraded...unless this has been done already.
So in my case I didnt need to upgrade my alternator...I am running HIGH POWERFUL amps and a booming sub...high end sub.
Depending on your car you might need to upgrade the alt...but I'd suggest big three first and battery. If that doesnt help then try the capacitor...if that doesnt work then alternator. Alternator is the expensive of the upgrades...and you may have a hard time finding replacement alternators for your car....depending on the car you have.
I dont really have a choice either on alternators...Element's not a very popular car for alternator manufacturers...hehe.
Do i need to change alternator with a 2600 watt amp?
i have the same amp and i use to have the same subs connected to it, your headlights will definateley dim. if you dont plan on pushing the amp to its limits, (5000watts or so it says), then you should be fine with upgrading the %26quot;big three%26quot; wires and getting a deep cycle battery, never get a cap, they are completely worthless, as for the box 3/4%26quot; MDF is strong enough, both those shops are just trying to rip you off by selling you a cap that does nothing or a custom box thats really just a regular box.
if you still need more power get a 150 to 200 amp alternator.(last resort)
I would get a high current alternator. to keep it safe you need the full power of your headlights to drive around, it would suck if your driving around with your loud music and get into a wreck because your headlights cut off all of the sudden. keep it safe.
I am very confused on what i should do and I don't want to install it the wrong way and have my alternator fail . . HELP!
Do i need to change alternator with a 2600 watt amp?
Do you have it all in now? Are the lights dimming? or are you planning to get this gear installed? a high output alternater is nice...but may be expensive. Replacing the battery might be a better alternative and a decent cap. But the other major thing to think about is the Wiring. This upgrade is cheaper...especially if you can do it yourself. Also people refer to this upgrade as the %26quot;Big three%26quot;.
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/foru鈥?/a>
Which is very important. I'll tell you what I've got in my system...and just have the stock Alternator of a Honda Element which only puts out 105amps. My system consists of a PHoenix Gold Ti 900.7 amp, for my 5%26quot; Phoenix Gold Component sets (2x each....so 4 5%26quot; and 4 tweeters ) also running a pair of Phoenix Gold Ti 9%26quot; midrange woofers in my doors.
I am also running an Autotek Mean Machine 3000.1 amp. which is running a Fi BTL 12%26quot; Sub fully loaded 3rd magnet, cooling etc.
I have upgraded the big three and have replaced the crappy factory battery with a Yellowtop Optima. No dimming lights. I hit about....148db on a TL Meter....
Oh ya and also running a Phoenix Gold 15 Farad cap...but Capacitors are SOMETIMES overrated.
The X Subs are supposed to be pretty powerful...I've never heard/seen one in action, so I couldnt tell ya but ya a prefabricated box may not be powerful enough to hold your subs if they are extremely heavy and you put a lot of power through it. You need to make sure the box is not cheap. For any sub really. cept the cheapy subs...hehe...the better built the box, usually the better the sound. But it all has to do with the specifications of the sub and materials used as well as how it's built. I dont think the 20 farad cap by itself will help you out. I am surprised the shops have not said that you need the big three upgraded...unless this has been done already.
So in my case I didnt need to upgrade my alternator...I am running HIGH POWERFUL amps and a booming sub...high end sub.
Depending on your car you might need to upgrade the alt...but I'd suggest big three first and battery. If that doesnt help then try the capacitor...if that doesnt work then alternator. Alternator is the expensive of the upgrades...and you may have a hard time finding replacement alternators for your car....depending on the car you have.
I dont really have a choice either on alternators...Element's not a very popular car for alternator manufacturers...hehe.
Do i need to change alternator with a 2600 watt amp?
i have the same amp and i use to have the same subs connected to it, your headlights will definateley dim. if you dont plan on pushing the amp to its limits, (5000watts or so it says), then you should be fine with upgrading the %26quot;big three%26quot; wires and getting a deep cycle battery, never get a cap, they are completely worthless, as for the box 3/4%26quot; MDF is strong enough, both those shops are just trying to rip you off by selling you a cap that does nothing or a custom box thats really just a regular box.
if you still need more power get a 150 to 200 amp alternator.(last resort)
I would get a high current alternator. to keep it safe you need the full power of your headlights to drive around, it would suck if your driving around with your loud music and get into a wreck because your headlights cut off all of the sudden. keep it safe.
Removing the pass. side half shaft the only way to change the alternator on a 1999 cougar?
please help
Removing the pass. side half shaft the only way to change the alternator on a 1999 cougar?
I assume you are working on the pain-in-the-butt six cylinder. You can maneuver the alternator around the cv shaft. It is a pain, but it is do-able. Make sure you have the plastic inner fender liner out.
Removing the pass. side half shaft the only way to change the alternator on a 1999 cougar?
what does merc. say in the service book or the service dept say the parts dept should have an answer for you also good luck
Jack up the engine/car. If needed loosen up a motor mount. you should have the room needed then. They make this stuff this way so dealerships can look forward to revenue from parts and service i think.store properties dog
Removing the pass. side half shaft the only way to change the alternator on a 1999 cougar?
I assume you are working on the pain-in-the-butt six cylinder. You can maneuver the alternator around the cv shaft. It is a pain, but it is do-able. Make sure you have the plastic inner fender liner out.
Removing the pass. side half shaft the only way to change the alternator on a 1999 cougar?
what does merc. say in the service book or the service dept say the parts dept should have an answer for you also good luck
Jack up the engine/car. If needed loosen up a motor mount. you should have the room needed then. They make this stuff this way so dealerships can look forward to revenue from parts and service i think.
My 1996 devile's battery keeps on dieing after about an 1hr i changed the alternator and battery already?
Make sure that the main fuses which are either on the positive battery cable end or in the engine compartment fuse box are good. They blow if someone jumps the battery backwards by mistake. That will keep an alternator from charging. The fuses are at least 60 to100 amp and are bolted in if in the fuse box. I'm not sure if a vehicle as old as yours has fuses or the fuseable link wires found in older American cars.
New alternators can burn out if installed in a vehicle with a bad or discharged battery, so keep that in mind.
My 1996 devile's battery keeps on dieing after about an 1hr i changed the alternator and battery already?
Your battery has a dead cell in it. Take it back to where you bought it. I should be under warranty.
My 1996 devile's battery keeps on dieing after about an 1hr i changed the alternator and battery already?
http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-鈥?/a>
Bad Wires, maybe in one of the Harnesses. With everything Turned off Due a Draw Test or go to a Good Auto-Electric Shop %26amp; Explain the Problem and have them do the Draw Test.
New alternators can burn out if installed in a vehicle with a bad or discharged battery, so keep that in mind.
My 1996 devile's battery keeps on dieing after about an 1hr i changed the alternator and battery already?
Your battery has a dead cell in it. Take it back to where you bought it. I should be under warranty.
My 1996 devile's battery keeps on dieing after about an 1hr i changed the alternator and battery already?
http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-鈥?/a>
Bad Wires, maybe in one of the Harnesses. With everything Turned off Due a Draw Test or go to a Good Auto-Electric Shop %26amp; Explain the Problem and have them do the Draw Test.
How do i change the alternator in my 1995 nissan altima..?
should the battery also be replaced? it has 145,000 miles
How do i change the alternator in my 1995 nissan altima..?
You can get great how to info on the Internet if you have the tools and are mechanically inclined. Changing the alternator is not hard. BUT... take it to the auto parts place and make sure it's bad before you spend the dough.
How do i change the alternator in my 1995 nissan altima..?
go to the auto parts store, tell them what kind of car you have, (they have books to find out what kind of alternator) then disconnect the battery, take out the old one, pop in the new one.
The only way to know for sure is to see mechanic, just look for one in the yellow pages. You can find one that will not charge you for diagnostic or atleast get an inspection for about 50. Its not worth guessing or letting people here give you bad advice.
get a CHILTON'S manual for your vehicle...it has detailed directions as well as pictures and diagrams....alternator can be a very easy thing to change...but it is sometimes really hard to get to...they will help you at the auto parts store also...good luck
With a spanner and no the battery is fine just get it charged ..lol..
its easy, just pick up a mechanic manual from your local parts store
How do i change the alternator in my 1995 nissan altima..?
You can get great how to info on the Internet if you have the tools and are mechanically inclined. Changing the alternator is not hard. BUT... take it to the auto parts place and make sure it's bad before you spend the dough.
How do i change the alternator in my 1995 nissan altima..?
go to the auto parts store, tell them what kind of car you have, (they have books to find out what kind of alternator) then disconnect the battery, take out the old one, pop in the new one.
The only way to know for sure is to see mechanic, just look for one in the yellow pages. You can find one that will not charge you for diagnostic or atleast get an inspection for about 50. Its not worth guessing or letting people here give you bad advice.
get a CHILTON'S manual for your vehicle...it has detailed directions as well as pictures and diagrams....alternator can be a very easy thing to change...but it is sometimes really hard to get to...they will help you at the auto parts store also...good luck
With a spanner and no the battery is fine just get it charged ..lol..
its easy, just pick up a mechanic manual from your local parts store
Alternator Change on Powerstroke?
A basic question on changing out the alternator on a 7.3 liter powerstroke engine. I've got a 1999 Ford F-250 and I want to pull the alternator to test it. I've given it a quick glance and it looks like pulling the unit is pretty straighforward and on top (versus hard to reach). However, in order to loosen the serpentine belt, where is the adjustment (tension) pulley? I don't want to turn more bolts than I need to....thanks in advance
Alternator Change on Powerstroke?
The last answer raises a good point - most charging problems can be tested without removing parts. If you do want (or need) to remove the alternator, get a breaker bar with a 1/2 inch drive, seat it securely into the tensioner opening, and get a helper to hold it with 2 hands to loosen the belt. Remove the serpentine belt from the alternator pulley and leave it hanging in place - it will make it a lot easier to re-install if you don't completlely remove it. Taking a couple photos of the belt in place is a good idea if you have to remove or replace it, they can be tough to figure out unless you have a diagram.
Alternator Change on Powerstroke?
Mine is a '94, tensioner is located between the alternator and power steering pump, the belt runs underneath the tensioner. I use a fairly long bar, it takes considerable force to push it up.
Look for the pulley bracket with a 1/2%26quot; drive square in it. Use a breaker bar to pry it back to release tension on the belt.
Take it to a shop, they can test the charging system without a turn of a wrench !!
jac 1067 is correct.... actually if the truck was never wrecked, there should be a sticker on the radiator support or the hood that tells the size of the ratchet head and the direction you need to turn it in to release the belt.
Alternator Change on Powerstroke?
The last answer raises a good point - most charging problems can be tested without removing parts. If you do want (or need) to remove the alternator, get a breaker bar with a 1/2 inch drive, seat it securely into the tensioner opening, and get a helper to hold it with 2 hands to loosen the belt. Remove the serpentine belt from the alternator pulley and leave it hanging in place - it will make it a lot easier to re-install if you don't completlely remove it. Taking a couple photos of the belt in place is a good idea if you have to remove or replace it, they can be tough to figure out unless you have a diagram.
Alternator Change on Powerstroke?
Mine is a '94, tensioner is located between the alternator and power steering pump, the belt runs underneath the tensioner. I use a fairly long bar, it takes considerable force to push it up.
Look for the pulley bracket with a 1/2%26quot; drive square in it. Use a breaker bar to pry it back to release tension on the belt.
Take it to a shop, they can test the charging system without a turn of a wrench !!
jac 1067 is correct.... actually if the truck was never wrecked, there should be a sticker on the radiator support or the hood that tells the size of the ratchet head and the direction you need to turn it in to release the belt.
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